Mortgage Information
Introduction to Mortgage
Financing
What is a mortgage loan?
A mortgage requires you to pledge your home as the
lender's security for repayment of your loan. The lender
agrees to hold a lien on your title until you have paid
back your loan plus interest. If you do not repay your
mortgage loan, the lender has the right to take
possession of your house and sell it in order to satisfy
the mortgage debt.
Principal and Interest
All mortgages have two features in common. The first
feature is the mortgage principal, which is the actual
amount of money you borrow. So, if you take out a
$70,000 mortgage, your mortgage principal is $70,000.
The second feature is the mortgage interest, which is
the money you pay for use of the money you borrow. How
much interest you pay over the life of your loan depends
on a number of factors. The interest you pay on your
mortgage can be deducted from your income taxes, which
is one of the many benefits of home ownership.
Amortization
Over time, you will repay your mortgage gradually
through regular, monthly payments of principal and
interest. The amounts of these payments are calculated
to let you own your home debt-free at the end of a fixed
period of time. During the first few years, most of your
payments will be applied toward the interest you owe.
During the final years of your loan, your payment
amounts will be applied almost exclusively to the
remaining principal. This type of repayment method is
called amortization.
When you sell your home, you will be required to pay
back any remaining principal balance due on your
mortgage loan to your lender.
Finance Glossary
What is PMI?
PMI or "private mortgage insurance", also called "mutual
mortgage insurance", is an insurance policy that insures
the lender for loss that might occur due to foreclosure
on a loan that exceeds 80% of a property's value. PMI
does not insure the borrower from loss. A premium is
paid as part of the buyer's closing costs equaling one
year of coverage, and a three month impound of monthly
premium is usually also charged. PMI may require that
borrowers maintain a minimum of two months cash reserves
in their bank account, and additional sums may be
impounded through escrow pursuant to the requirements of
the lending institution or the PMI company
What are points?
Points are a one-time, up-front fee charged by the
lender to originate the loan. 1 point equals 1 percent
of the loan amount.
What does APR mean?
Annual Percentage Rate (APR) -- Represents the actual
note rate of the borrower's loan at the time of the
application plus points and certain closing fees added
and recalculated as if they were interest, and were
computed on an annual basis. The APR is I intended to
give consumers a standardized basis to compare the costs
of borrowing from different lenders. It is not the
actual note rate that will be used to determine the
borrower's monthly principal and interest payment.
How to use APR for comparison:
Is there a wide spread between the APR and the actual
note rate? Has a lender has quoted an unusually low note
rate, but the APR on the truth in lending statement is
equal or higher than the APR stated by competing
lenders? Either of these scenarios indicate that a
lender might be charging higher points and closing fees
to offset a lower note rate.
What do the other figures on the "truth-in-lending"
statement mean?
Finance Charge -- Represents the total interest that
would be paid if the loan were repaid over the full
contact term (usually 30 years). Points, and certain
closing fees paid to originate the loan as specified by
Regulation Z are also included in this total.
Amount Financed -- Represents the dollar amount of the
borrower's loan less points and certain closing fees as
specified by Regulation Z. This figure is not the loan
amount. Again, a wide spread between the actual loan
amount and the amount financed could indicate higher
points and closing fees.
Total of payments -- Shows total dollar amount that
would be paid if the borrower makes all the payments
required for the full contract term (usually 30 years).
Good Faith Estimate -- Lists fees that are charged to
process, approve, and make the mortgage loan. It is a
federal requirement that every lending institution send
out a good faith estimate (Regulation Z) within three
days of the loan application.
Loan Application Checklist
The essential first step in the home buying
process is a "pre qualification" interview with a
knowledgeable and experienced loan agent. This important
first step will help you set the perimeters of purchase
price and monthly costs. You can then make your home
buying decision from a position of financial strength,
with confidence that you have the ability to complete
the purchase.
To expedite the process, you'll want to collect the
as many of the following documents as possible to bring
to your "pre qualification" interview.
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YOUR IDENTITY |
- Copy of Driver's License or State ID
- Copy of Social Security Card
- Copy of Resident Alien Card
- 2 current pay stubs (most recent)
- 2 years W-2s (most recent)
- 2 years tax returns (most recent)
- If self-employed - current P&L
- Bank accounts: Name of bank, address, account
number, balance
- Copies of 3 months bank statements (most recent)
- Stock & bonds, IRAs, Mutual funds (copies of
most recent statements)
- If down payment is a gift - gift letter from
donor
- Creditor's names, addresses, account numbers,
balances due
- Name, address, account number, and phone of
landlord or current mortgage
- 12 months canceled checks for rent or current
mortgage
- If negative items on credit report, letter of
explanation
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OTHER
REAL ESTATE OWNED |
|
 |
Present value |
 |
Balance due on mortgage:
Name, address, account number of mortgage holder |
Introduction to FHA 203 Loans
- Zero down payment for first-time buyers!
- Loan amounts in excess of property values to cover
needed repairs!
- Investor incentives that allow the full costs of
renovating to be stacked on top of the acquisition cost of
the dwelling-- all for a 15% down that can be recouped with
substantial profits in a matter of months!
Sound too good to be true? Not with the Federal Housing
Administration's (FHA) new and improved 203K program. Although
it's been on the books for years as the federal government's
primary financing tool for home renovations, it never produced
many loans because it was considered an administrative
nightmare. Now that's been changed!
At the heart of the 203K program is the premise that the best
source of affordable housing for moderate and low income home
buyers is the fixer-upper. These homes need work and are priced
or valued below their potential as a result. Put on a new roof,
do some electrical work, modernize the kitchen and give it a
fresh coat of paint and it becomes a great starter home for the
first-time buyer.
However, this scenario usually breaks down when it comes to
locating affordable financing for the renovations. Lenders
typically want buyers to come up with large down payments and
then finance the renovation expenses separately from the actual
cost of the property. Then only after the repairs have been
completed might a lender be willing to do a permanent 'take-out'
loan on the renovated house.
The 203K is different. It allows borrowers to combine the
'as-is' value of the property, mortgage expenses and the future
costs of renovations into one loan up front. Best of all, it
extends highly favorable FHA down payment, income and asset
qualifying terms to the entire package. This can mean down
payments in the four to five percent range for most home buyers.
And, if you are a first-timer, the 203K program takes the down
payment concept a step further.
How about a zero down! Here's how it works. An investor or
renovator locates a rundown dwelling needing repairs and applies
for the 203K loan with the intention of turning it over within
an 18 month period. His down payment is 15 percent, as required
by FHA for all investor transactions, but because he's declared
his intention to resell the property to a first-time buyer, his
loan amount is calculated differently -- on something FHA calls
'escrow commitment procedure.' What this does is afford the
investor or renovator a higher loan amount, one based on the
value of the property after all the repairs have been made and
the property is ready to be sold on the open market again.
After completion of the renovations, the investor would allow a
first time buyer to take over (assume) the loan for a no cash
down payment. What makes this deal so attractive is that it
addresses the single greatest need of both parties -- fast turn-
over of capital for the investor, and cash leveraging for the
borrower. One wants to get in and out of the property as soon as
possible, while the other is just happy to get in at all. By
providing a zero down payment option it opens the property up to
a much larger pool of qualified buyers. This translates into
quicker sales and the investor gets a faster return on his
dollar.
The Basics of FHA 203K
Here's the schedule of improvements that qualify for FHA
203K funding!
$5,000.00 is the required minimum of eligible improvements.
Structural alterations and reconstruction. Repair or replacement
of structural damage including chimney repair. Finishing of
attics and basements or garages where permitted by locality.
Repair of termite damage and treatment against termites and
other infestation.
Improved function and modernization. Remodeled kitchens and
baths, including permanently installed fixtures and appliances
(built-ins). Elimination of health and safety hazards.
Resolution of lead based paint or asbestos hazards.
Recondition or replace HVAC (heating, venting, air conditioning)
systems and electrical systems. Includes connections to public
systems.
Installation of wells and septic on large properties.
Flooring, tiling and carpeting.
Energy conservation. New double pane windows, insulated exterior
doors, solar domestic hot water systems, insulation, caulking
and weather-stripping. Replacement of leaky jambs, sills,
heaters, etc.
Landscaping and site improvement. Patios, decks and terraces
that improve the value of the property equal to the investment,
or that preserve the property from erosion. Grading and drainage
improvements are included. Tree removal is acceptable if the
tree is a safety hazard. Repair of existing walks and drives is
included if the walks or drives are a safety hazard.
Improved accessibility for the Handicapped. Providing space for
wheelchair access, lowering kitchen and bathroom cabinets and
fixtures, widening doors and providing ramps, etc., are
included.
FHA 203K Guidelines
These basic 203K guidelines will help insure a
hassle-free transaction!
Work with a mortgage company that is familiar with the 203K
process.
Be realistic about "nice to have" but unnecessary rehab. Many
203K loans are limited to the borrower's ability to qualify for
enough mortgage to fund HUD required repairs. "Wish lists"
should be prepared with thought as to the priority of each item
on the list.
Remember that rehab money is provided AFTER completion of part
or all of the work on a "reimbursement" basis. Not all
contractors will agree to front all of the material and labor
costs without the owner's assistance.
State licensed contractors provide the best insurance of a
timely, complete and quality rehabilitation effort. FHA 203K
inspectors tell us that the majority of 203K construction
project problems are caused by borrowers attempting to make
repairs themselves, and failing to pass inspection. A contractor
will usually get the job done in 30 - 60 days; saving time,
money and worry for everyone.
Get a termite report as early as possible, HUD requires it. A
thorough termite inspection report can prevent many problems in
the rehabilitation effort.
Have the utilities on for the inspection.
The Loan Wolf Mortgage Guide
Contributed by Randy Johnson
Independence Mortgage Company
Many otherwise prudent people choose a Lender on the basis of
very subjective thinking, like, "We have banked there for 15
years," or "I see their ads on TV."
Shopping for a loan can save you a lot of money but most people
(as many as 80% by some estimates) go about shopping in the
wrong way. They "shop" for a loan the way they shop for a new
barbecue. Loans are not like barbecues.
The variations between loans are far too complex for that
approach. Most people get confused by the staggering array of
choices and that's why they don't get the best results. I wrote
this brochure and my book THE LOAN WOLF MORTGAGE GUIDE, to help
folks just like you.
First, you should understand the relationship with your lender:
it is commercial, PERIOD. I don't see any evidence that big
institutions care much about their individual customers anymore.
That includes you. Does anyone at your bank remember your name?
In spite of advertising which tries to convey personal concern,
they have a millions of customers and they will "care" about you
just so long as you meet their criteria. When you don't, you are
history! That's all right because you shouldn't care from whom
you get your loan either because the money is ultimately coming
from Washington or Wall Street anyway.
Second, many lenders look at themselves as wolves and their
customers as sheep to be shorn. I want to turn YOU into a wolf,
to level the playing field, to give YOU power so you can
negotiate from knowledge and strength.
Third, although the Government mandated disclosure forms are
supposed to be for your protection, the type is so small and the
text so long that they are difficult to comprehend. Indeed, they
can actually be used to hide the truth as well as reveal it. You
want to find someone to give you competent advice, not someone
who will just hand you forms!
The following tips are based upon my 16 years of experience in
funding over $400 million in loans. They will help you get the
right loan for your family at the best rate.
1. Immediately get a credit report from TRW, TransUnion, or
other bureau. You have plenty of time to correct any mistakes. A
FICO score above 680 is excellent.
2. Do NOT call a bunch of lenders and ask, "What are your
rates?" Almost every lender has at least a dozen programs, each
with 10 or more rate vs. fee alternatives. That's over 100
choices. See the sample Wholesale rate sheet to see what I mean.
Many lenders quote a program which was designed specifically to
snooker the telephone rate shoppers. It will "sound good"
because it was designed to "sound good." Other lenders may not
tell you the truth. Some Loan Reps purposely lie to phone
shoppers in order to induce borrowers to apply with them. You
are not smart enough to "catch them." Beware of "Zero Point" or
"Zero Cost" loans. They are sucker loans. Remember - Nothing is
free!
3. Your objective is to find a lender you can TRUST. Ask advice
from your friends, co- workers, neighbors who are homeowners.
Some of them will have had positive experiences with a lender.
Call the lenders they refer you to, make appointments (what the
phone is for!), and interview them in person. You need to assess
the competence and communication skills of the Loan Rep who will
be handling your transaction. Personally, I would avoid the huge
institutions which hire Go-fers for $7 per hour and call them
Mortgage Consultants. They don't know much and have no power
within their institution to help you. You want a rep who will
help you and, if needed, "go to the mat" for you.
4. Determine which loan program is best for you. Here are three
very simple guidelines. First, do NOT pay for 30 years of
expensive rate protection (what the 30 year fixed rate loan
does) if you are only going to be in your home for 5 years.
Second, if you are a Teacher or retired Minister, you are in no
position to take risks; you need a fixed rate loan. Third, if
your income is rising, if rates are falling, or you're only
going to be in the house for a few years, an ARM is probably
more suitable for you.
5. If you choose an ARM, if rates have risen, choose a loan tied
to a lagging index such as the 11th District Cost of Funds. If
rates are falling, choose a loan tied to T-Bill's, CD's, or
LIBOR. Re-fi when the rate environment changes.
6. For the common programs, the differences in rates between
reliable Lenders is minuscule. For example, most Conventional
loans are sold to FNMA or FHLMC which buy loans from 24,000
banks, S&L's, and mortgage bankers. Each of those 24,000 lenders
have the same "cost of funds" on any given day. You want a
lender who will "sell" you FNMA money at the lowest mark-up.
(Remember what I said about Trust?)
7. Your lender is legally obligated to send you the RESPA and
Good Faith Estimate of Closing Costs within 3 days of
application. Insist on this!!!! Read them and ask questions
until you understand them. While this disclosure is not binding
on the Lender, it will show the costs and fees on the program on
the date you applied, a good starting point. Many people think
that their rate is locked in at the rate shown. This is not the
case! You need to find out your lender's lock policy. The market
can change rapidly so developing an executing a good lock-in
strategy is very important.
8. If you are dealing with a Mortgage Broker, insist on seeing
the rate sheets from his sources of funds. If he refuses to show
them to you, get up and leave. When you find a Mortgage Broker
who will work with you (who won't keep secrets from you),
negotiate what their commission (their points) and other fees
will be on top of what the money source's rates and fees are.
Then get an Agreement in writing that they will not charge you
more than the agreed upon commission. When it comes time to lock
your rate, get some help figuring out which rate/fee choice is
best for your needs. Get the name of the Manager.
9. If you are dealing with a Direct Lender, ask the Loan
Officer, "How are you compensated?" If you get the answer, "I'm
on commission," ask, "Does your company have certain programs or
pricing options on which you get "overages" or extra
commissions?" If so, you want to identify those programs and you
obviously want something else. Get the name of the Manager.
10. Your Settlement Agent (Escrow in some states) will call you
when loan documents are delivered to them. You have enough to do
at escrow just signing your loan docs. It's a poor place to
review anything, so have them Fax the RESPA forms and the note
to you. Compare these forms with the initial RESPA forms you
were given. In the event there is more than a minor discrepancy,
call the Manager to get an explanation (now you know why I
suggested you get his/her name.)
If you see the letters, "P.O.C." it means the Mortgage Broker is
getting paid something in addition to their Loan Origination
Fee. That's OK if the Origination Fee and the amount P.O.C. add
up to what you agreed upon in #8. (e.g.- 1 point Origination and
1/2 point P.O.C. is OK is you initially agreed that they would
make 1 1/2 points total.) If you have a problem, go to the
Manager and complain vigorously. Lenders who are not honorable -
there are some - are used to blowing off people who just
complain a little. If you are right and if you are insistent
about not signing loan docs until they are correct, they will
correct the error rather than deal with the mess you can create
with their Regulators.
11. (Well, I had to get one more in.) Most people have a benign
relationship with their mortgage. The coupon comes every month
and they just pay what it says to. They do not remember what the
rate is and if it's an ARM, they are only dimly conscious of the
variations. Every year Lenders make millions of dollars of
profit off of people who weren't aware that somewhere along the
line they could have re-fied into a lower cost loan. Here's some
good advice: develop an active relationship with your mortgage.
Write down the key features of your loan and pay attention to
the market. If you find a lender you can trust, ask him to keep
you informed of developments which could be of benefit to you.
There are some terrific Loan Agents out there and if you are
pleased with yours, reward that person and his firm by referring
them to friends. If you are dissatisfied, there are a Regulatory
bodies in every state and HUD in Washington who can examine
cases of irregularity. Don't be shy. Our industry would be a lot
better off if people DID complain when they are abused.
Adjustable Rate Mortgages
Many people choose adjustable rate mortgages to finance
the purchase of a home. Here are some of the facts you need to
know to make your decision:
Typically, adjustable rate mortgages are seen to have two
strengths. First, adjustable rate mortgages tend to less
expensive over the life of the loan, than fixed rated loans,
especially early on. This is because the lender is willing to
charge a lower rate because the borrower shares some of the risk
should the rates go up.
In addition, the lower entry rate of an ARM can often allow
borrowers to qualify more easily for a loan, or for a more
expensive home.
Adjustable rate mortgages have an interest rate that increases
or decreases over the life of the loan based upon market
conditions. A financial index governs the changes in the
interest rate. When the index rises, so will the interest rate
of the ARM. When the index falls, the interest rate of the ARM
will decrease.
There are different indices to which an ARM may be linked, for
instance: The Federal Home Loan Bank Board's national average
mortgage rate, or the U. S. Treasury rate.
Generally, the more sensitive the index is to market changes,
the more frequently the rate can increase or decrease.
Most ARMs have semi-annual or annual caps that limit the amount
your interest rate or payment can go up or down during that
period. An additional protection is a lifetime cap that limits
the amount your interest rate can adjust over the life of the
loan.
Interest Rates: Cause and Effect
Understanding Mortgage Interest Rates
As the nation's bank, the Federal Reserve controls short term
interest rates by raising or lowering the sum of money in the
banking system. Short term rates include the Federal Discount
Rate (Rates at which banks borrow money) and the Prime interest
rate (rates at which consumers borrow from banks).
Mortgages are considered a long term rate since home loans are
typically for a 15 or 30 year period. Long term rates are
influenced only indirectly by the Federal Government.
In the "second money market", mortgages are sold in "pools" to
investors. On any given day, those rates are set by the market.
As mortgage-backed-securities are bought by investors, funds are
channeled back into the market, so that lenders can make more
new mortgage loans.
The nature of a long term, mortgage-backed security is that the
investor buying the security agrees to accept a fixed rate of
interest for the life of the investment. For instance: 7% for 30
years; but this means the investor must be confident that a 7%
yield won't end up a lousy return over the period if other
market interest rates rise.
That is why a surge in the job market can spook investors; and
drive mortgage interest rates up.
Investors naturally associate stronger economic growth with
rising interest rates and potentially rising inflation. Why?
Because a greater number of employed Americans means more
consumers clamoring for goods and services.
When the economy shifts to faster growth, investors don't want
to own lower yield, long term securities. But if
mortgage-back-securities aren't bought by investors,
funds for making new loans are depleted. So, to compete with
higher, short term yields in a rising market, higher yields on
long term mortgage-backed- securities are demanded.
But, let's keep the current rates in perspective. Rates are
still near a generational low. Lenders are offering a wide
variety of programs to fit every need. Special community and
government programs are available
FHA Loan Limits Increased
Effective 1997, Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac and FHA are
increasing their loan limits. Freddie Mac and Fannie Mae's loan
limits are going up from $207,000 to $214,600 on all conforming
loans. This increase also has the effect of increasing the
maximum FHA loan amount, which is indexed to 75% of the Fannie
Mae/Freddie Mac conforming loan amount. Consequently, the
maximum FHA loan amount is now $160,900.
This is expected to have a beneficial impact on the housing
market, especially since the FHA program is the type of
financing used many first time home-buyers.
Secrets of Loan Underwriting
What do lenders look for in a loan application?
A loan application is, in essence, a snapshot in time of the
borrower's past history. It is the foundation from which an
underwriter forms an opinion about the borrower and begins to
interpret the information gathered which results in a loan
decision.
It is critical, therefore, that the loan application be
completely filled out.
Most underwriters use the 4 C's of underwriting to form an
opinion about the applicant. The 4 C's are listed below:
Character
Who is this individual(s)?
Has he/she been a homeowner previously?
What does he/she do for a living?
Is his/her education in line with what he/she claims to
do?
Has he/she been on the job for a stable period of time?
(2 years min)
Capacity
Does the applicant have the ability to repay the debt?
Is the income stated verifiable and is it steady, ongoing
income?
Is the increase in monthly housing expense reasonable?
What is the source of down payment?
Does the applicant have a history of savings?
Will there be sufficient reserves at the close of escrow to
give the applicant "breathing room"?
Credit
How much credit appears on the loan application?
Are there any mortgages for every property (unless shown free
and clear) listed on the application
Is there a history of heavy credit use?
Does the loan app indicate a previous judgement, bankruptcy,
foreclosure or pending lawsuit?
Does the applicant pay alimony, child support? (This
questions also reflects on capacity).
Collateral
Where is the subject property located?
In a worst case scenario, (a foreclosure) would we (the
lender) be able to recoup this investment?
Does the future marketability appear to be strong in the
area?
This complete picture helps the underwriter see the whole
picture so to speak and is able to make a clear "common sense"
decision on the credit worthiness of an applicant.
The "100% Loan"
When buying a home, the down payment can be the biggest
roadblock to home-ownership. But now lenders have recognized
this problem and have come up with an innovative way to combat
this problem. Homebuyers who don't have enough for a downpayment
now have an option - the 100% home loan.
Here's how it works: Suppose you and your spouse's income
qualifies you for a $150,000 home purchase but you don't have
enough for a down payment. You asked grandma if she could help
and she said she'd like to but she can't afford to lose the
interest income from that CD she has at the bank or maybe she
doesn't want to hand over thousands of her hard earned money as
a gift. Now she can pledge 25% of the purchase price in the form
of an interest bearing CD with that bank instead of gifting a
downpayment. The bank then lends 100% of the purchase price. The
bank holds this sum as collateral until the loan has been
reduced to 75% loan to value. Using a simple strategy in
addition to the current rate of inflation (2% on average) these
funds could be released in as little as three years!.
Some of the benefits are the following:
- You can deduct more mortgage interest, Grandma continues
to earn interest on her CD which she can get back in three
years!
- You're now able to buy with no down.
- There is no PMI which is an additional cost.
- The pledgors can total three and can be anyone living
anywhere in the United States. (It doesn't necessarily have
to be a relative, but cannot be the seller.)
A drawback is that if the borrower is foreclosed on, the pledgor
loses their funds. There are many other variations available
which we haven't discussed when it comes to down and pledgor
funds. The pricing is no different than your conventional loan.
You can borrow up to $400,000 and can take advantage of the No
Income Verification loan which means no tax returns, no W2's,
for self employed borrowers no profit and loss statements!.. So
you just may want to ask grandma if she can help. It's very
likely she now can!
Loan Pre-Approval
A pre-qualification is a good start as a rule of thumb as
your first step in purchasing a home however the only drawback
is there is no obligation to make a loan. The terms
pre-qualification and pre-approval are often used
interchangeably but there is a big difference! A pre-approval
letter obligates the lender to make the loan, subject to the
appraisal. While a pre-qualification letter or
certificate means very little as the lender has no obligation to
make the loan! A pre-approval letter can be obtained by your
lender usually at no cost and is good typically for a period of
60 days.
Many homebuyer's prefer to find a home first then try and locate
financing later. Here are a couple of reasons why you should not
use this approach. One, you may be looking in a higher price
range and fall in love with a home you cant afford or qualify
for. Two, when making an offer to purchase a home, a
pre-approval letter from a lender provides you with leverage in
pricing and other negotiable items you would may have without
it.
From a seller's perspective, if there is a choice between your
pre-approved offer and another offer without a pre-approval,
more often than not the seller will accept the pre-approved
offer. Why? Even if it's a lower priced offer, the seller, and
the seller's agent, know it's more likely to close and take less
time, since a credit report, underwriting, and other steps in
the process have already been done and approved. If the seller
were to accept the other offer without the pre-approval, they
run the risk of taking their property off the market for weeks
on a potentially non-qualified borrower while the pre-approved
borrower may move on and purchase another home!
As you can see it's to your advantage to get "pre-approved" with
a lender before you begin looking for a home. This will give you
and your realtor the leverage needed to successfully negotiate
the offer to purchase your future home without any unnecessary
surprises!
If you are looking for a Mortgage
Representative, E-mail me
. I will then send you names & phone numbers of some very good
Mortgage Reps.
Information on terms,
conditions and programs are subject to change. |